Sunday, January 10, 2010


Delicate more than French Laundry
Fresher than any sushi bar
Friendly like Ubuntu
Unique like no others

We were half an hour early.  Milton was too excited about Saison and we kept the reservation even after I decided to go into 2 weeks of Atkins induction phase.  Saison is located behind Stable Cafe.  Walking through the side yard, all we saw were a restroom and a kitchen with sliding door half opened.  There are no other sign or entrance.  Milton peek into the kitchen to ask for Saison.  Chef came out, greeted us, then had maître d' guide us through kitchen to the dinning room.  
There were only 7 small tables and a community table sit 8, only 22 seats total.  Because restroom is outside and only entrance is through kitchen, we got opportunities to walk around the kitchen and chat with staff every time we go to the restroom.  Maitre'd gave us an open invitation "walk around and make yourself at home", and we took full advantage of it.  The experience is so unique.
"Wonder kid" Skene managed to earn perfect score during his career at French Culinary Institute NYC while working in the kitchen of Jean-George Vongerichtten.  We experience Joshua Skene's perfection through his cuisine, perfect in scent, flavor, and texture for each single bite.  (Joshua plating daikon & turnip)

light yeasty sweet bubbly form Loire valley
Reeled-in mackerel three kind
seaweed, cucumber, and daikon
(early bird's worm)
We were way early than the rest of the guests.  Chef prepared this extra amuse bouche for us to get us started while maitre'd is printing today's menu. 
Light olive oil coating on mackerel was so genius to tone down the fishy taste.  The mackerel is moist and tender, fresher than any sashimi I ever had.  I love sashimi and crave for sashimi, had sashimi four meals in past three days.  I think I can speak like an expert.

Oyster,leek, California wild caviar
Lightly flavored to retain the true taste of fresh oyster.  When the tenderness warm salty oyster touched our lips and tone, it gave us the sensation of kissing mermaid.  

our farm EGG, smoked butter, wild caviar

Egg is my favor dish.  I love L'Arpege Farm Egg at L'Arpege and also at Manresa, French Laundry creamy truffle custard, Chez TJ's slow poached farm egg which got me ordered Polyscience sous vide machine. I had such high hope on Joshua's farm egg, and... YES!  Amazing layers of egg still in liquid form, wild trout caviar, dashi cream, smoke butter buyon, and chive work like wonder.  I called Joshua Skene the wonder kid.

Riesling with nose of sweet pear, not enough acidity and a bit too sweet for the delicate giant CLAM.  I asked to open BYO 2007 Meusalt perrieres Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey instead.

typical Peirre-Yves tropical nose that reminds us our honeymoon and annual Maui trip.  Young pineapple, coconut, and toasted barley which should match well with Commis' toasted barley risotto

giant CLAM caramelized chicories
hojiblanca olive oil & citron
Giant clam thinly sliced with truffle shaver was so delicate and preserved the true natural flavor.

light metallic nose with pineapple in the mouth


caramelized shoots, leaves & flowers, roots stewed with bonito
daikon & turnip
(in the kitchen before Joshua plated)
(in the dinning room after Joshua plated)
Adding a refreshing vegetable course between seafood and meat to clean palate, the same way I serve dinners at home.  Light bonito broth showcase the clean daikon flavor, outstanding!  

Oregon Pinot

little BEETS slow-roasted with hibiscus & bone marrow
Both beet and bone marrow have soft smooth texture while the bone marrow was seared to a crispy crust to add interest.

Wine paring is unlimited re-fill.  I have to stop the sommelier because I am on Atkin induction phase and really can not afford the temptation. 

poularde, whole-roasted 
podi spices, almond milk, natural jus
This chicken beast put sous vide to shame, much better than the famous Bresse chicken from L'Ambroisie Paris.  The milk-fed young hen was soft and moist while the skin is paper-thin delicate and crispy.  I usually do not eat chicken but this dish totally changed my mind.  I just bought a skin-on chicken breast and will try to use sous vide and oven roast to repeat this dish tomorrow.  Without high hope though.
How does chicken drink milk? I asked maitre 'd.  "milk curd".  Now, it makes sense.

chocolate-walnut crumble, salted caramel ice cream
Well.  I cheated the Atkins diet.   I had one bite...  OK, one bite of caramel ice cream and one and half bite of chocolate-walnut crumble because it really is not sweet but salty ;-)

no espresso, just press coffee

I did well that I did not touch the bread, barley under giant clam, or this delicious rosemary cookies.  Miton ate them all and temp me with every single bite he took....

No comments:

Post a Comment